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Training

Puppy Socialization Basics

Why Puppy Socialization is So Important

If you have or are planning to get a new puppy, you may have heard that the key to a happy, well-adjusted, well behaved dog is to socialize them properly as a puppy.  The reason for this is that puppy socialization teaches your puppy about the world around them. Through interactions with other living and non living things, they will learn what is safe and what is not. It also teaches your puppy how they should react to commmon situations. A puppy that has not been socialized properly may grow up to be fearful of the unknown

To give you an idea of just how important it is to socialize your puppy the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior issued a position statement on the subject.  In AVSAB’s Position Statement on Puppy Socialization, it states that “it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated”.  They go on to say that “early and adequate socialization and programs of positive training can go a long way to preventing behavior problems”. Studies have shown that behavior problems are caused by poor socialization and is the number 1 reason dogs are surrendered to shelters. It is also the primary cause of death for dogs under three years of age. 

Having had a dog that was not properly socialized as a puppy, I can attest that it does cause you and your dog hardships for their entire life.

Our Story

After having a rescue dog with many behavioral and medical issues we decided that our next dog would not be a rescue. This time we were going to look for a reputable local breeder.    But we really didn’t know what breed of dog we wanted, so we decided to look at puppy stores just to see what was available.  This of course, was a mistake.

Molly

Molly was the cutest, little tail wagging puppy I had ever seen.   She was a 2 month old friendly English Springer Spaniel that just wanted to play.  When we took her to a room to play with her she was so excited that she was literally sliding up the walls. I told my husband that she was too hyper for us (actually I told him the dog was crazy) and that we shouldn’t buy from a puppy store, but he was falling for her.   I convinced him not buy her and left the store.

But he couldn’t stop thinking about her and two months later he stopped by the store to find that she was still there.  After hearing that she was going to be put down, we decided to buy her at a steeply discount price.  

At this point Molly had been living in the store for two months.  Since she was a puppy mill puppy, I assume she was born in a crate and lived in one until she was shipped thousands of miles to the store.  

We knew puppy mill puppies could have medical issues, what we didn’t know at the time was that living in that environment for so long, severely affected her social skills. 

Social Skills

Soon after bringing her home we started noticing Molly’s lack of social awareness.  Since she was four months old and fully vaccinated we were free to take her out for walks to the local park. We had a friend that lived near the park that we would visit on the way.   There we would meet up with other dog parents to chat and our pups were free to mingle. But Molly always seemed to annoy the other dogs.   She didn’t notice the social clues they were giving her.  One day, one of the adult dogs snapped at her.  She took notice at the time, but continued to be clueless around other dogs. This lead to her being bit in the park by an older dog who did not appreciate her high energy.  

When she turned 6 months we sent her to doggy day care a few times a week to socialize with other dogs, but just like at the park she didn’t seem to be able to get along with the other dogs.  Again she was bitten. By the time she was 1 year old she started to go on the offense. When she met another dog, she would bite them before they bit her.  This was a problem. 

Afraid of People

Molly was also afraid of people.   She was ok with adults, though she would urinate whenever an adult would pay attention to her, sometimes on their feet.  Children were a different story.  She was afraid to let them near her.  If they got too close she would let out a warning bark.   We were afraid that one day she would bite a child, like she did with dogs.

Over time she learned to trust people and we learned she could not be near other dogs.   Although we were able to correct some of her issues through training, she never completely overcame her fears. I do believe all her issues arose from not being socialized at that critical stage in her life.

What is Puppy Socialization? 

What is Puppy Socialization? Gray puppy with black cat

Socializing your puppy means introducing them to as many new people, places, sounds, and experiences that can be safely achieved without causing overstimulation. The optimal time to socialize your puppy is before they are 3 months old. Sometime between the ages of 3 and 4 months your puppy will naturally start to become weary of the unknown.  Now that doesn’t mean you should stop socializing them after 4 months. It just means they are the most open to new things before 3 months old.

But exposing your pup to new experiences is not enough. You want to teach them how to react when encountering something new.  To do this you must be calm when exposing them to new situations.  You can also use distraction as a way to keep your pup calm. Giving them their favorite treat can turn a frightening experience into a pleasant one.

In a recent study Swedish researchers compared the stress levels in dogs to their owners by measuring levels of the stress hormone cortisol in their hair.  It was found that there was a strong correlation between the dogs long-term stress levels and their owners.

When to Start Socializing

Puppies start the socialization process when they are still with their litter.  They follow clues from their mother regarding the rules of the house and they learn about proper play through interactions with their littermates.   But when you bring your puppy home, you become their primary teacher.

Socialization can begin inside your house as soon as you bring them home.  Introduce them to the other members of your family, to where they will sleep and to their new food bowls.  If you plan to crate train them, you should introduce them to the crate.

For simple steps to get you started on crate training read: Crate Training Made Easy

According to the AVSAB position you can start to socialize them in safe places outside of your home once your puppy has received their first set of vaccinations and deworming at around 7 to 8 weeks old.

How to Socialize a Puppy  

The socialization process can be broken down into main three categories:

Handling

How to socialize a puppy - Black puppy

Handling means getting your pup used to being touched, either by you, family members, the groomer, the veterinarian or other people.  It can be as simple as having new people pet them or a trip to the veterinarian.

When working on handling your pup, think about all the things that might be done to your pup as they grow up. Things like grabbing their ears, looking in their ears, holding their paws, touching their nose, rubbing their tummy and holding them in your lap.

Interactions

Interactions are meeting new people, dogs, or other animals.   Make sure you introduce your pup to a wide range of people and animals.  

Puppy Socials are a great way to introduce your pup to new people and puppies in a safe place.   Most puppy socials are run by professional trainers who require proof that the puppies are up-to-date with their vaccinations and deworming.   Not only will your pup get to meet and play with other puppies, you get the benefit of a trainer who can help you understand what normal play is versus aggressive play.  To learn more about Puppy Socials read Puppy Socialization Classes- What to expect

Experiences

Puppy Socialization Basics - Puppy on blue stand

Experiences can be anything your dog may encounter in their life.  Think about how you plan to include your dog in your activities, than slowly introduce them to it. Start out with a less stressful experience like getting used to wearing a collar and walking on a leash. When they have mastered that you can move on to a more stressful situation like walking on the sidewalk on a busy street. 

A good way to provide experiences in a safe environment is to go to Puppy Kindergarten. In Puppy Kindergarten, your pup will be exposed to different dog owners and their pups. In addition to new people and dogs they will learn basic commands like sit, stay and come. They will also be exposed to things like being handled by a trainer or playing on different surfaces. However, if you find a puppy kindergarten or puppy social that does not require proof of vaccines and deworming look for another place.

Here are 5 Safe and Easy Ways to Socialize your Puppy before they are four months old.

Don’t Overdo It

White puppy laying down

Remember not to overdo it. Puppy socialization should take place over time with time in between for your puppy to rest and feel safe.  Too much too soon can cause your puppy to become over stimulated and stressed. The main purpose of puppy socialization is to help your pup feel confident with the world around them.  A confident, at ease dog will be easy to control and a pleasure to be with.

Sometimes, even though we have the best of intentions, we still make mistakes during the socialization process.   I sure know I have. Here are 10 common puppy socialization mistakes you don’t want to make.

To learn more about puppy socialization and training read:

Puppy Social – What to Expect

Why Take a Puppy to a Puppy Social?

Taking your puppy to a well-run puppy social fills a need every puppy has, to be introduced to their world at a young age. The first three months in your puppies life is a critical time. This is the time that puppies are most open to new experiences.  After this time period your puppy will naturally begin to develop fears of the unknown. 

Puppy Social

But there is a catch.  It is essential that you do not expose your young puppy to germs that can be harmful to them before they are fully vaccinated. This makes the task of exposing your puppy to all the sights and sounds of everyday life including interacting with other dogs difficult.  To fill this need many dog trainers are now offering puppy socials.  

The key to a happy, well-adjusted, well behaved dog is to socialize them properly as a puppy.  The reason for this is that puppy socialization teaches your puppy how to be comfortable in our world. To learn more about Puppy Socialization and what you need to know to get started read: Puppy Socialization Basics

What Happens at a Puppy Socialization Class?

A puppy socialization class is a safe supervised place where puppies younger than 5 months old can run and play with other puppies. The Puppy Social we attended consisted of 45 minutes of playtime with other puppies plus time with toys and fun obstacles. The trainer-supervised play sessions guaranteed safe play opportunities for all the puppies while teaching us what normal puppy behavior looked like. 

Puppy Socials - What to expect. Young puppy at a puppy social with a ball.

What to Look for When Choosing a Puppy Social?

When deciding on which Puppy Social you should attend look for the following features to help ensure it is a fun and safe place for your puppy:

  • Required age limits –Dogs should be close in age for safety.
  • Require proof of up-to-date vaccines and deworming before allowing puppies to participate. 
  • Supervision – Make sure there is adequate knowledgeable supervision to deal with any issues that may arise. 
  • Look for a social that limits the number of participants
  • A well run puppy social will divide the dogs by size and temperament. 

My Dog’s Got Class Dog Training

We chose the My Dog’s Got Class Dog Training – Puppy Social for our 13 week old puppy Bella because of the great reviews, convenient location and required proof of age appropriate vaccines.  They were also recommended by our veterinarian who resides at the same location.

Sign-up

Signing up for the puppy social was easy to do.  Once we created a profile, we signed-up for the class on line.  Payment could be made either on-line or at the start of the class.

Room set up

After walking through the front door we entered into a small foyer with low wooden gates.  We were instructed to unleash Bella and then open the gates to let her into the main area. This safety feature was to prevent other dogs from rushing to her, possibly overwhelming her, while we were trying to take her leash off.   

Once inside, the large room was divided between large and small breed puppies. Since there were twice as many small breed puppies they had twice the room to run around.  Both sides of the room had different tactile objects like tunnels and Fit Paws balance equipment to run around, jump on and play with.   The puppy owners were asked to sit off to the side and not interfere with the puppies, while the trainers that were stationed on both sides kept watch making sure the dogs played in a safe, polite manner.

New friends

Puppy Socialization - new friends

For Bella this was the first time since she was brought home at 9 weeks old that she had a chance to play with other dogs.  It was clear that she did not know how to play properly with other dogs.  She was more aggressive then the other puppies. We were assured by the trainer that she would settle down after awhile once she found her place.  

At one point she was playing too rough with a Bernice Mountain puppy who was much larger than her and the tables were turned. Bella became the one running away, scared, but it taught her a valuable lesson.  If you want someone to play nicely with you, you need to play nice too. 

Break time

The dogs were given water after about 20 minutes of running. Then it was time to bring them outside for a bathroom break.  Just outside the entrance was a fenced in yard for the dogs to use. There are also waste bags to clean up after them.  Once the puppies were done with their business they went back inside to run and play some more.

Cheerio time

From time to time the trainers would throw out cheerios for the puppies. This was done to encourage breaks in the activity, especially when some of the puppies started to get too excited.  My daughter and a couple of other young girls were asked to help toss the cheerios as a way to familiarized the puppies to young children.

End of Puppy Socialization Classes

During the second half of play time Bella was calmer and tired.  She became less interested in the other dogs and more interested in the tennis balls and cheerios. You can see her here hoarding tennis balls. We think it was a great experience for her. 

For more Puppy Training

How to Stop Your Puppy’s Chewing

How to Stop Your Puppy’s Chewing

If you have a puppy in your life you know that puppies will chew on everything.  Your shoes, a toy, the furniture, pretty much anything they can get their months on.  Although this is normal behavior for puppies, it does not mean you need to let them use your furniture as a teething ring. Join us as we explore ways on how to stop your puppy’s chewing.

Black and white puppy next to chewed table leg in How to Stop Your Puppy’s Chewing

Although our 4 month old puppy has toys to chew, she prefers the table’s leg. She is very sneaky about it.  She will lay next to my feet during dinner. When no one is watching she starts chewing on the table leg.  You can see the damage she did in only a few days.

Why do dogs chew?

Chewing is a natural behavior for dogs.  Most dogs will have the desire to chew all their lives. The instinct to chew can be traced back thousands of years when dogs had to chew through bones to survive.  That instinct lives on in dogs today.

Puppies chew mainly because their teeth are coming in and it hurts. Chewing helps relieve some of that pain. Puppy “teething” tends to be at its worst between 1 to 8 weeks and again at 4 to 6 months. Although puppies will outgrow the teething stage, they may continue to be a destructive chewer if not properly corrected.

Obsessive chewing may be caused by other issues like separation anxiety, hunger, or being weaned before seven weeks old. Each of these issues will have different remedies. For the purpose of this post we are going to stick with teething as the reason for chewing since it is the most common cause of destructive chewing with puppies.

The Puppy Blues – Dealing with a new puppy can be hard, especially if you are a first time puppy parent.  It’s common to feel like you made a mistake. Let’s face it puppies generally come untrained, can’t understand you and don’t know the rules of the house.  But it does get better. It’s important to understand that you are not alone.  Check out my post on Puppy Blues: Dealing with Regret to see how I managed my own puppy blues.

Stop Your Puppy’s Destructive Chewing

In order to stop your puppy’s destructive chewing you need to use a three prong solution:

  • Prevention
  • Deterrents
  • Positive Corrections

1. Preventative actions

Keep the place tidy

The best way to stop your puppy’s chewing from destroying your belongings is to keep your puppy away from them.  Objects like shoes, furniture, electrical cords or children’s toys should be picked up and placed out of your puppy’s reach. 

Don’t forget to puppy proof your home before your puppy gets hurt. For a list of dangerous items and areas you might not think of, go to Puppy Proofing Your Home – 10 Silent Dangers

Limit where they can roam

Do not give your puppy the run of the house if they are unsupervised.

When we first brought Bella home we knew that with two young kids there was no way we would be able to keep the entire house neat all the time.  So instead we confined her to the kitchen.  It is the place where we spend most of our time, so it made sense that she should be there too. At night she was placed in her crate in our bedroom. She was only allowed in other parts of the house when someone was watching her.

Slowly, as she learned her doggy manners and became housebroken we started to open up other areas of the house for her to roam.  If she broke any rules like chewing on something she shouldn’t, she was then restricted back to the kitchen.

2. Use Deterrents to Stop Your Puppy’s Chewing

There are just some items that you can’t place out of your puppy’s reach, like the table or floor molding.  Yep, our previous pup Molly decided to chew the floor molding. For these items you can either use a barrier to keep them from reaching the object, a bitter tasting spray or my favorite, a water gun.

small water guns - How to Stop Your Puppy’s Destructive Chewing

Yes, I just said a water gun.  Just a small one will do.  Another option is to carry a spray bottle.  Every time you catch them chewing on something they shouldn’t, spray them with a little water.   This option worked great for our Golden Retriever who liked to counter surf.   However, it only works if you catch them in the act.

A word on deterrent sprays

Just like people, dogs have different likes and dislikes.  One bitter spray may have a different taste and smell then another one. There is no way of knowing which one will work for your puppy without trying them. With that said there are a few products that seem to work better than others.  While none of the sprays recommended work 100% of the time, these sprays have at least a 64% approval rating.

Deterrent Spray Options

Note: As an Amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.

PRO Anti Chew Spray For Dogs / Puppies – 68% approval rating

happy-oodles-emmys-best-v1-fl

PRO Anti Chew Spray for Dogs & Puppies by Emmy’s Best is the only chewing deterrent that is alcohol free. Although not as widely known as the Bitter Apple sprays, people who use Pro Anti Chew have a higher approval rating.  The PRO Anti Chew Spray for Dogs & Puppies by Emmy’s Best is available at Amazon.com

Pro Anti Chew Spray combines a patient bitter agent with Tea Tree Oil to discourage chewing.  They also include an interactive training program to eliminate chewing in 14 days.

It is safe to use on furniture, clothing, shoes, flooring, and more.  This made in the USA spray includes an unconditional 1 year 100% satisfaction guarantee.

Grannick’s Bitter Apple Original Dog Spray – 64% approval rating

Grannick’s Bitter Apple Original Dog Spray is often recommended by dog lovers as a safe and effective chew deterrent. 

The original spray was invented at Grannick’s Pharmacy at the request of a customer whose dog became nervous before shows and would lick and chew his coat. 

This made in the USA spray has a combination of bitter apple and Isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) taste that deters chewing.

Grannick’s Bitter Apple Original Dog Spray can be found at Amazon.com

Tip: The sprays may not work the first time. It could take a few applications before your pup realizes that the item is always going to taste bad.

3. Use Positive Corrections to Stop Your Puppy’s Chewing

A positive correction is when you replace an unwanted behavior (like chewing on your shoes) with an acceptable behavior.  We have tried many types of safe chewables with varying results.  In fact she might love something one day and be disinterested in it the next. 

Here are a few that have worked for us.

Carrots

Our puppy loves clean fresh carrots. In fact, whenever she sees the carrot bag come out she waits patiently hoping for a piece to come her way. The downside to giving her carrots is that as she gets older it takes her less time to eat them. 

You can freeze the carrots to make them harder to chew and by default also take longer to eat. Whether fresh or frozen, make sure that you cut the pieces large enough to prevent choking (don’t use baby carrots) and limit the amount you give so it does not interfere with their main meals.

Hymalayan Dog Chew


Hymalayan Dog Chew is available at Amazon.com

What is it? These 100% all natural hard cheese chew snacks are made from Yak and Cow’s milk with a little salt and lime juice.  Made in the Himalayan Mountains they contain no preservatives and are completely consumable.    Because these tasty treats are so hard it takes a long time for my dog to eat it.   Although not completely made in the USA (since it is from the Himalayans) these treats are processed and tested in the USA.

Tip: Never allow your dog to chew anything into a small enough piece that they can choke on or create an obstruction if swallowed.

Kong


Kong available at Amazon.com

The USA made Kong comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. You can fill the inside of the Kong with a thin layer of  peanut butter, canned pumpkin, soft cheese or dog treats for hours of entertainment. Try freezing the filled Kong to make the filling last longer.

We have the original cone shaped Kong in large from our previous dog and small Kong for our puppy.  When deciding on which size Kong to get, check to see if the opening is too big for your puppy. Your puppy should not be able to get his lower jaw into the Kong’s opening. It may get stuck.

The Kong is a classic dog toy that has been around a long time.  Our first Kong lasted the entire life of our spaniel which was 15 years.  We still have it.  Most dogs love the Kong. The down side of the Kong is that it is a little difficult to clean.  Use warm soapy water and a bottle brush to clean out any food residue that gets stuck.

Size Matters

When choosing any toy for your puppy, consider the size of your pup compared to the size of the toy.  Small toys are dangerous for large puppies that may be able to swallow it or break it apart if they can place the whole toy in their month. Large toys may be impossible for a small pup to play with.

Everlasting Treat Bento Ball Starmark

Starmark Everlasting Bento Ball with Dental Treat in Orange

Everlasting Treat Bento Ball Starmark can be found at Amazon.com

The Everlasting Treat Bento Ball is a soft rubber half ball with a space for the Everlasting hard edible chew on one side and a pocket to add your own small treats on the other. The rubber is free of latex, vinyl and phthalates and is dishwasher safe making it easy to keep clean. The purpose of the toy is to engage dogs to chew on the soft outside while trying to get to the hard flavored chew inside. There are nubs on the outside of the ball that gently cleans and massages the gums.

Everlasting Treat with Dental Ridges

The Bento Ball we purchased came with the Everlasting Treat with Dental Ridges. Although not truly everlasting the hard chew does last awhile as long as it remains in the ball.  Once the treat is out of the ball it is fairly easily to eat. We love this toy because the soft outer ball is easy on our puppy’s teeth, while the hard inside satisfies her need to gnaw on something.

The first week Bella had the ball she kept working on getting to the hard chew on and off until she finally wore down the raised ridges on the chew.  If you have an aggressive chewer it may take less time to get to the treat. 

So, if you want to stop your puppy’s destructive chewing follow the three prong solution laid out in this post.  It worked for us.   

Replacement treats for the Everlasting Treat with Dental Ridges can be found at Amazon.com.

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Crate Training A Puppy – Made Easy

Crate training was one of the best decisions I made for my new puppy. Why? Because crate training a puppy takes advantage of their natural instinct to find a safe, quiet place to sleep and hide from danger.  In the wild, dogs will look for a small cave to rest in, but since you probably don’t have a small cave in your house a crate is the next best thing.    

As an Amazon affiliate I earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

Advantages of Crate Training a Puppy

Crate training a puppy has many advantages.  First it provides a quiet place for your pup to retreat to when they are scared, tired or over stimulated. It keeps your puppy safe and out of trouble when you can’t keep an eye on them. Also it teaches your pup that being in a confined place is ok.  This will be a very important life lesson if you ever travel with your pup or if they need to spend time at the vet’s or a kennel. 

Check out this video from the Humane Society of the United States video on why you should crate train your puppy.

How to Pick a Crate

The first step in crate training a puppy is deciding which crate best fits your needs.

As you are deciding which crate to purchase, think about the size your pup will be when they are full grown.

Crate Sizing

The general guideline is that crates should be at least 4 inches higher and longer then what your pup is expected to become. I would argue that it should be much larger than what you think your puppy will grow to. You want them to be able to move around in the crate once they are fully house trained.

How to measure

If your pup is full grown measure their length from their nose to their tail and add 4 inches to get the minimum  length of the crate you need then measure from the floor to the top of their head while they are sitting and add four inches to determine the minimum height needed.

If you have a puppy purchase a Midwest Lifestages Crate with a divider panel. This way you can buy a crate that will fit them as adult dogs but can reduce the size of the crate while they are still potty training.

Tips:

  • It is better to get a crate that is too big then one that is too small.  Our crate is much larger then our small pup but it gives her space to move around and stretch

Still not sure which size to get.  Go to Midwest Home for Pets and select a breed or size to get a recommendation on which size to get.

Cloth vs Metal Crates

Cloth crates are nice but metal crates are easier to clean and sanitize when you are potty training your pup. Plastic crates can be cleaned like a metal crate but they offer less ventilation. We suggest getting the highly rated Midwest Homes for Pets Lifestages Crate which can be found on Amazon.com.

To learn more about what you need for your new puppy check out our post What You Need for Your New Pup

Crate Training a Puppy Made Easy

1. An Inviting Place to Stay

You want to make the crate an inviting place to be. Do this by placing the crate in an area that is central to your home but a little out of the way.  A corner of the room where your family spends most of their time works well.  This is our crate which is located in our livingroom next to two walls. Try to stay away from heating or cooling vents. Then line the crate with blankets and add a few safe toys.   You can cover the crate with a lightweight blanket or sheet to give it a “den” feeling.  Just make sure it is well ventilated and does not get too hot.

To help make the crate a more inviting place to be, consider adding a crate pad to their crate.

We prefer to use only USA made dog beds due to concerns over toxic chemicals found in many imported pet beds.

Big Barker Crate Pad

Crate Training A Puppy - dog in crate

If you feel the same way Big Barker makes an Orthopedic Dog Crate Pad. This crate pad is made in the usa with 4″ Certi-PUR US® certified foam and comes with a removable, washable, waterproof and tear resistant cover. You can find this crate pad at Amazon.com.

Another option is the MidWest Homes for Pets Deluxe Super Plush Pet Bed. This bed are not made in the USA but has very highly rating and are made to fit the Midwest crates. These beds are completely machine washable and a good option if you have a Midwest Lifestages crate.  You can use a smaller sized bed in the crate while you have the divider up.  Once they are grown you can get a full sized bed for your pup.  You can find the Midwest Deluxe Pet Beds at Amazon.com

Tip:  If you are getting your pup from a breeder ask for a blanket or toy that has your pup’s mom’s scent on it.   Place it in the crate with the other blankets. The scent will only last a few days but it should help soothe the pup for the short term.

If at all possible you should have the crate setup before your puppy comes home for the first time.   That way when your pup is exploring their new surroundings it will be just one of the many new things they will discover.  

2. Comfortable with the crate

Allow your pup time to sniff around the crate, making sure the door is secured in the open position.   If your pup walks away from the crate it’s ok. Don’t force them to enter the crate.  After your pup has had some time adjusting to their new environment lure them back to the crate using a treat or toy.     Make a game out of the process.  Toss the toy in different directions for the pup to chase.   Always have another toy to lure them back to you.   After a bit of throwing and chasing, throw the toy just inside the crate.   Since it is a small enclosed space they will probably be leery of going inside but may be willing to poke their head in to get the toy out. 

After playing this game for a few minutes stop and do something else with your pup.  Later in the day play the game again but this time using treats to lure your pup into the crate. Continue playing this game throughout the day so that your pup gets used to going in and out of the crate, each time throwing the treat a little further into the crate.

TIP: You should only leave toys in the crate when you can keep an eye on your pup.   No toy is completely indestructible or completely safe.   Our little Bella has gutted every soft chew toy we have given her.  Even the ones labeled “indestructible” 

3. Practice Staying in the Crate

Once your pup becomes comfortable with going in and out of the crate, toss their favorite toy or treat into the back of the crate and close the door.  Give your puppy a few minutes to try to get to it from the outside.  Then open the door so your pup can go in to get it.  This time though close the gate behind your pup. Leave it closed just long enough for him to realize the door is closed, then open it again.   Play this game on and off throughout the day.

Another way to help make your pup comfortable with being in their crate is to gently place them in there for naps and quiet-time breaks.  Start in increments of 10 minutes and work up to longer periods. Do not take your pup out if they are crying.  Wait until the crying stops. You may only have a moment to react before they start to cry again.

4. Bathroom Breaks

Remember to take your puppy outside immediately after you take him out of the crate so he can go to the bathroom.  In the beginning you may want to pick your pup up to take him outside so he does not try to go inside.    He will soon associate leaving the crate with bathroom time.

5. Crate Training a Puppy at Night

Hopefully your pup has become comfortable with the crate before it is bedtime but one day may not be enough time for them to become totally comfortable with the idea. 

Follow these steps to make bedtime in the crate easier for your pup and you:

  1. A few hours before bedtime feed your pup so they will have time to digest and eliminate before being crated. 
  2. A couple of hours before bedtime play with your pup to get them tired.  Don’t do it right before bedtime because that will rile them up.
  3. Right before bedtime, take your pup outside to go to the bathroom.  Do not rush this.  Make sure he has time to completely empty out.
  4. Bring the crate up to your room, preferably next to your bed.
  5. Say goodnight to your pup and place them in the cage. Don’t make a big fuss over saying goodnight.
  6. For the first few nights it would be best if you went to bed at the same time as your pup. Try to sleep close to your pup. That way your pup can see that you are near and not feel so alone. The closer you are to your pup the easier they will settle down. Once they have settled into living with you they can sleep further away. But remember dogs are social animals. They want to be close to you.
  7. Remain patient – Your puppy will cry. However it should stop after a while.

A Word About a Crying Puppy

It’s going to happen for the first few nights.  Even if they were to sleep outside of the crate, they will still need some time to adjust to being without their littermates and mom.   If you just let him outside (and you gave him time to do his business) he should not need to go to the bathroom right away.  Give him some time to settle down without letting him out of the crate.  If he has had enough exercise he should be tired and fall asleep after a short while.

However if your pup sleeps for a while and then wakes up crying, you will need to take them outside. Do not talk or engage with your pup while taking them out except to give the “go potty” command.  If it is still night time bring him back into the house and place him back in his crate.

All dogs are different and will respond to crate training differently. The most important thing to remember is to show them love and compassion. Some dogs may take longer to adjust to sleeping in a crate.

For more tips on what to do if your puppy crys in their crate at night please read our post: Puppy Crying in the Crate at Night?

Crate Training a Puppy Do’s and Don’t’s

  • You should never leave your puppy locked in a crate all day.  It is not good for their mental or physical health. If you need to keep them in a safe place consider an exercise pen like the one shown below.
  • Don’t leave your puppy in a crate for longer than two at a time. They will be unable to control their bladders and bowels for that long.  The general guideline is 1 hour for each month old but not to go above three hours. 
  • Only crate your dog until you can trust them not to get into trouble. After that, it should be a place they go to voluntarily.
  • Do not use your dog’s crate as a punishment. The crate should be their safe place to go when they need down time. 
  • Do send your pup to his “room” to calm down if they have become over stimulated and need quiet time to rest but only for short periods of time. 
  • Do not bang on the crate while your puppy is inside. This will only frighten them and make them scared of the crate.
  • Try not to lose your patience.   The learning process takes time.

For more on crate training do and don’ts check out our post: How to Crate Train a Puppy: 10 Mistakes to Avoid

Exercise Pens

Here you see the Midwest Foldable Metal Exercise pen connected to the Midwest crate. The combination creates a safe place for your puppy when you can’t watch them. The Midwest Foldable Metal Exercise pen can be found at Amazon.com

For more tips check out these posts:

Deciding To Crate Train

Deciding to crate train is a personal choice. Some people truly believe in the benefits and others don’t. I didn’t believe in it, at least not until we had Molly, a 4 month old rescue from a puppy store.

I never liked the idea of crate training. The thought of my beloved furry friend, alone, made me sad.    Growing up we never crate trained our dogs, so it wasn’t a concept I was used to.  When we brought home our first puppy as a married couple and someone suggested we try it, I was against it.  My husband researched the subject. He found that crate training was promoted as a faster way to house train a puppy.  I was all for faster house training but just wasn’t comfortable with locking her is a crate. 

But then something happened that changed my mind.

Join us as we reveal the reasons we decided that crate training was the best option for us.

Molly

We found our first puppy Molly at a pet store before we knew much about puppy mills.  Molly was a very hyper little English Springer Spaniel puppy. She had lived in the store for two months prior to us bringing her home. We found her by accident when we went into the store to just “look”. At the time we had just lost our golden retriever to cancer and was looking for a pick-me-up by looking at puppies. I was not our intention to buy a puppy there.

In fact we did not buy her at that time. But she had stolen my husband’s heart and after a month he stopped by to see if she was still there.

She was. Now at 4 months old she was much too big to be in a small glass crate meant for a 2 month old puppy. The store clerk remembered my husband. They started to talk about the puppy. The clerk told my husband that she would be put down soon because she was getting to old to sell. At that point my husband called me at work to see if we could agree to save her. We did, at a very steep discount.

Kitchen fiasco

When we first brought Molly home we tried leaving her gated in our small kitchen.  There was nothing in the kitchen except for the usual large appliances, cabinets and a vinyl floor.  Just like we did in the old day, we laid out newspaper for her to do her business on and a water bowl.  We came home to find the water spilled all over the floor along with her waste and shredded newspapers.    It was not a pretty sight. 

The next day we left her in the kitchen for a shorter time period.  This time we came home to find that she she started chewing the floor molding. 

On day three she was put in her crate when we needed to leave the house. Because she had lived in a crate for most of her life she was perfectly happy sleeping there until we came home.  It became her safe place that she went to even after she was fully house trained and had full run of the place.

Our new puppy

Fast forward 18 years to our new puppy.   Unlike Molly our new pup Bella was not a puppy mill puppy.  We don’t know what her sleeping arrangement was at her foster home but she was there with her mom and two sisters until she was adopted.  She was clearly not use to sleeping alone in a crate. 

The first few nights she barked and howled and whimpered throughout the night.  No one was getting any sleep.  After a couple of days she got better but still put up a huge fuss that went on for a couple of hours before finally falling asleep. 

After about 4 days of this my husband started sleeping in the kitchen with her.   It worked.  She preferred to sleep on her bed under the table with my husband close by. Now the rest of us were able to get some sleep. I have to thank her foster parents because Bella house trained really quickly so accidents at night were not an issue.  

At around three months we started letting her sleep in the kitchen on her own.  This worked fine for a while. 

Table hopping

But as she grew she figured out how to jump up on our table and counters.   The first time she jumped on the table she ate about 7-8 raisins that were left out overnight.    If you don’t know, raisins can be toxic to dogs. She was fine.  It turned out she didn’t eat enough raisins to harm her.   We weren’t sure how she did it, but guessed that she used the chairs to jump up.  So we started to remove the chairs from the kitchen every time she was left alone.

About a week later we came home to find her on our table again. This time she managed to open a closed container that had a store bought chocolate pound cake in it. She ate about half of the cake before we caught her in the act.  Chocolate like raisins can be toxic to dogs if they eat enough of it.  We don’t know how she managed to get on the counter. The only way up was to jump straight up which was a mighty feat for a puppy that only weighed 14 pounds.  She is a small dog so it never occurred to us that she could jump more than twice her height.

Deciding to crate train

Deciding To Crate Train

After that we realized that we just couldn’t trust her.  Now whenever we go out or go to bed our little Bella is placed in her crate for her own safety.  Remember puppies are not born with an innate understanding of what is safe and what isn’t.   They need to learn that from us.

What should you do?

The American Kennel Association recommends that you crate train a puppy. But deciding to crate train your pup, or not, is a personal thing. Before deciding, you should ask yourself this question: Can I really ensure my puppy’s safety when I can’t watch them.  If the answer is no, then you should crate train them until they are old enough not to get into trouble. 

Also it’s important to teach your dog to be comfortable in a crate.  If they ever need to stay at a veterinarian’s overnight they will be crated.  It is better that they are taught to be comfortable in a crate before this happens.  To learn more about crate training read Crate Training made Easy and How to Crate Train a Puppy: 10 Mistakes to Avoid

For more tips check out my other posts: